In Japan, restaurants may be renowned for specialising in doing one thing well, but the modest and enduring Jugemu & Shimbashi chooses to focus on two things.

One dining room is all about soba noodles, made daily by hand. The second is geared towards teppanyaki grill cooking and okonomiyaki, Osaka-style savoury pancakes.

Luckily, it doesn’t matter where you sit, as you can still start with crisp, golden prawn tempura and plump gyoza dumplings filled with juicy pork and beef.

Springy buckwheat noodles come like a temple offering beside a bowl of hot broth, strewn with mushrooms and tender duck breast slices. Buta tama (pork belly okonomiyaki) is elevated street food, richly laced with cabbage and layered with thin slices of pork belly under ripples of Kewpie mayonnaise.

Go for the soba or the okonomiyaki, or – better – the soba and the okonomiyaki.