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There’s something deeply comforting about consistency in the restaurant world. From the minute you step into Cho Cho San’s concrete-clad, George Livissianis-designed space, you can be assured that service, izakaya-style snacks and smart sake-forward drinks will all be on point.

Miso-glazed eggplant sticks are so dangerously crisp and syrupy, they’re halfway to churros. Steamed buns are stuffed with juicy slabs of pork belly katsu, lettuce and gochujang mayonnaise – fight-’til-the-last-bite stuff.

That’s not to say the big plates pack any less punch: butterflied king prawns arrive charry off the hibachi and blanketed in a silky-as kombu butter, while striploin is lapped by jus and teamed with a triple-dipping threat of wasabi, yuzu kosho and mustard.

Then, of course, there’s the matcha soft-serve – just one more reason this diner has stood the test of time.