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To poach a sporting metaphor, great ramen is a game of inches. Savour the victories chef Jacob Riwaka claims in pursuit of a perfect bowl, from the bouncy chew of the noodles to a tare made with roasted wing bones – part of a broth that’s like a distillation of all the best-tasting chooks you’ve ever encountered.

Don’t skip the entrees, especially what might be the most striking prawn toast in town, starring a gigantic king prawn rolled in airy mousse and golden-brown
pastry, served head-and-all with a tangy take on sweet-and-sour sauce.

A short, sharp list of natural wines and a regularly changing menu of noodle creations (such as a brothless mazemen ramen that’s all fresh fennel and smoked chilli), make this smart little ramen shop a winner on all counts.