This St Kilda veteran has sailed through the changes at her helm. She may have lost her sea-horse-handled doors long ago but she's kept her share-house charm (all mismatched laminex, bevelled mirrors and '50s canisters) and the crowds that lap at her door (expect to queue at weekends). The graceful-under-pressure staff deserve a hearty salute and the menu is old-school cute- honeyed crumpets or a thick-mashed bubble 'n' squeak (sausage optional). Some dishes can be hit-and-miss (sweet potato hash, burnt on a bad day) but the classic burger's a beaut and there's a choice of five bloody marys. You've got to love the place for keeping the old St Kilda spirit afloat.