Babushka dolls and jars filled with, say, house-made fig or blood-orange jam are welcome distractions during the inevitable wait for a table here. You could also use the time to survey the house-specials board, and the extensive sandwiches and pies list- which offer plenty of choice. Squeeze through the tightly spaced tables, take a seat, and maybe lunch on vegetarian beetroot-based borscht served with thick slices of egg loaf, or lamb pelmeni (Russian dumpling) with chilli, silverbeet and soy (a twist on the traditional sour-cream condiment). Breakfast could be blintzes with cottage cheese and sultanas, a danish or croissant. It's all worth the wait.