First, there's the magnificent surf and beach view from the floor-to-ceiling windows on the top floor of this architect-designed building. It takes a lot to drag your eyes away from the roiling Pacific Ocean outside and focus on things closer to hand. Do so, however, and be rewarded by an entree of crisp-skinned pork belly with a couple of scallops tucked under a shaved fennel and rocket salad - a valiant attempt at surf and turf, lifted by a citrusy, caramelised orange sauce. More refined is open ravioli - silky squares of pasta folded over king prawns and double-peeled broad beans, the yolk of a soft-boiled quail egg nudging into the parsley and garlic sauce. Follow up with a beautifully rested almond-crusted roast lamb rack or 300-gram rump steak, served simply with roasted potatoes, green beans and bordelaise sauce. To finish? The quartet of gelato - chocolate, cherry, strawberry and orange with Cointreau. You are at the beach, after all.