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How many treechange dreams have been fuelled by Pancho? A vision of DIY charm, its farmhouse bric-a-brac plays well with artistically arranged tree branches, while an open fire adds to the country mise-en-scene.

The well-travelled menu delivers thrills and comfort in equal measure, aided by the region’s top produce including Salt Kitchen salumi and Mt Franklin organic veg.

Five-spiced chicken congee, bright with chilli oil and rich with oozing egg yolk, promises to cure whatever ails you. A perfectly cooked omelette marries vibrant kimchi and tangy cheddar; and the line between breakfast and lunch is delightfully blurred by rosy slices of rare roast beef, horseradish aioli and toast slathered in Cafe de Paris butter.

It’s always busy, but there’s no hurry. Bring your dog, sip a sultry smoked tomato and jalapeno Bloody Mary, and feel at one with the world.