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Surrounded by farmland and parks, Keilor can feel like a country town. So this restaurant’s moniker – Italian for “little village” – is spot on.

The kitchen team treat their 48-hour, double-fermented dough with religious intensity. See it stretching across the menu from aperitivo angioletti (fried dough served with fresh cherry tomatoes) to dessert zeppole (rough, sugar-dusted doughnuts and Nutella).

The lengthy pizza list includes Johnny Mozzarella, which subs out sugo for garlicky cream to create a milky margherita. The carbonara-inspired Connie Carbone comes with ruffled, rendered pancetta and a suitably rich yolky sauce. Forget stuffed crusts – these are puffed crusts with satisfying chew, dotted with the leopard spots that mark a pro pizzaiolo.

The setting is comforting and homely, with decor consisting of Italian football memorabilia, gingham tablecloths and amaro bottles stuffed with fresh flowers.