There’s no music at Oriental Impression but you’d struggle to hear it if there were. In a room packed to the brim, lively conversation dominates. Everyone’s demolishing piles of barbecued meat on sticks known as chuanr, of which there are more than 30 types starting at $2 a pop.

It’s impossible to order badly, whether you gravitate toward lamb, pork belly and chicken wings sprinkled with cumin and chilli, or beef tendon, soft pork bones and chicken giblets. Vegetarian sticks are just as solid. Individual garlic chives are laboriously spiked onto a single skewer, and a satisfyingly slippery mung bean noodle salad provides respite from the onslaught of spice and salt.

Everything comes as it’s ready, so order in rounds and raise your hand when you can handle more. Just be sure to bring friends for optimal sharing potential.