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Beyond Mister Sandrino’s double shopfront is a gorgeously intimate space with leadlight windows, a pressed-metal ceiling and suave ’70s tunes. Walls are lined with bottles of wine and peppered with vintage knick-knacks.

Goodnatured, attentive staff will walk you through affordable wines by the glass and an epic bottle range, and the menu is one tasty kapow after another. Dip grilled flatbread into satiny whipped salmon roe brightened with finger lime. Slather negroni bitter fennel jam onto charred baguette with plump white anchovies, or sink your teeth into brioche capped with outrageously luxurious parmesan custard.

Bigger dishes run from rich cauliflower risotto with a zap of lemon to barramundi with saffron-braised chickpeas. You can try to stop by for a glass of barbera d’alba then be on your way, but don’t bet on it. This is Linger Central.