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Kajiken, a noodle chain that began south of Tokyo in Nagoya, specialises in aburasoba (soupless ramen), made with wavy yellow noodles and a medley of oils and sauces to build flavour, complemented by a choice of 14 toppings from chashu pork and nori to spring onion and soy-marinated egg.

When your noodles arrive, you’re supposed to toss them immediately (as you would a salad) to make sure the sauces and toppings coat the hot noodles. Taste and then decide if you want to add any of the condiments on your table: chilli oil, rice wine vinegar, sesame seeds or crushed garlic chips.

There are 11 choices of aburasoba, plus snacks such as takoyaki (deep-fried octopus balls) and ebi (prawn) croquettes; donburi (rice bowls) with toppings including chicken karaage; and matcha soft-serve.

Go-to dish: Homura with spicy minced pork, dried fish powder and egg yolk.