If you baulk at making decisions, this is not the place for you.

After queuing, diners select one of 15 pan mees (Malaysian handmade noodle soups), then decide on spiciness, noodle shape and viscosity plus optional additions, perhaps black fungus or fish balls. Ordering is a bit like an interrogation, but it’s well worth it when piping-hot bowls arrive.

Traditional soup is a hearty and healing broth fragrant with pork and anchovy, swirling around springy hand-pulled noodles. Hot and spicy pan mee served dry is sans soup but intensely saucy, with meaty punches of anchovy, pork mince and mushrooms. A poached egg adds pleasing richness.

Tucked under a CBD apartment complex, the decor is somewhat stark, with a humming air-conditioner as soundtrack. But order heavenly crumbed pork char siu and all you’ll hear is the sound of satisfied munching.