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If Honcho were in Melbourne, it would earn plenty of plaudits, from best value feed-me menu to best margarita list. The latter ranges from classic to wildly creative, a theme across many dishes, too.

Birria spliff is a cheeky name for smoked beef and queso rolled into a pastry cigar and served with consomme dipping sauce. Fried calamari comes with hibiscus salt and jalapeno mayo. This is modern Mexican, a style of cooking that’s all the rage in its homeland and the States.

Fire licks many dishes, whether charcoal-roasted zucchini with smoked yoghurt or lamb barbacoa to wrap in warm flour tortillas. It’s a nice touch for a fire station turned restaurant. Whitewashed brick walls, flowing curtains and blond timber have modernised the space. A fitting plaudit for Honcho might be: best surprise of the High Country.