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Fusion food can be gimmicky, but this newcomer overcomes any preconceived notions. It specialises in Chifa cuisine, which originated in Lima’s Chinese community in the 1920s and brings together Peruvian and Cantonese cooking.

This might be the only place in Melbourne to try chaufa – fried rice with prawn and Peruvian soy sauce – or the stir-fried beef dish lomo saltado.

But it’s the smaller dishes that really pop. Coconut-rich tuna ceviche comes with pearls of puffed rice. Snapper bao gets a squeeze of lime and gentle heat from aji amarillo, the chilli pepper. An airy guava cheesecake with chunky salt flakes will mollify even the most stubborn cheesecake sceptic.

Position yourself at the terracotta toned bar to watch the chefs work the wok, or sit in the leafy courtyard for one of many bright pisco cocktails.