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Melbourne, we have a naan problem. There are two breads at Cafe Southall that are so good, and so different, it’s impossible to decide which one is better.

The first is stuffed with minced lamb – a generous fistful of spiced meat spread thick – then slapped into the charcoal-fired tandoor until fragrant and golden, and served with spicy mango chutney. The second is blistered and glossy, filled with gruyere, aged cheddar and paneer.

The obvious solution is to have both, but there are so many other compelling dishes: 48-hour lentil dhal; the lamb shank and bone marrow stew nalli nihari awadhi; and pista kulfi,the condensed milk ice-cream, pistachio-green and cardamom-scented. Photos from India line the walls, and there’s a courtyard that kicks off in warmer months.