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Ca Com is a refreshing counterpoint to outdated concepts of what banh mi can be. In a room dominated by a glimmering silver bench, busy staff dispatch sandwiches to metal trays.

The food celebrates Australia yet is unapologetically Vietnamese-Laotian. The owners, also of polished Vietnamese restaurant Anchovy next door, invest the time to make their own cold cuts and fish sauce. The pork belly roll delivers layers of complexity, humming lustily with oven roasted meat and hiding surprises such as crushed cashews, coconut hoisin and funky Laotian red curry paste.

A rich, high-low sanger combines runny yolk from sunny-side-up eggs with pork liver parfait. Vegetarian? Sub out parfait and request the “hack”. Retreat to the lush courtyard with a deeply caramelised palm sugar canele and count your blessings for a venue this unabashedly, deliciously Asian Australian.