Staff in jeans and sneakers. Girl groups doing the full Greek. Couples sipping and nibbling at the bar … Apollo is use it as you wish, from an all-day menu on weekends to the private chef’s table (for 12) tucked into a kitchen alcove. The look is bare cement, big marble bar, grainy tabletops and fine bentwood chairs - distressed, shabby chic and just where you want to be for Greek food with heart, soul and great ingredients. Examples: calamari and zucchini tossed in chickpea flour, a hint of mint and lightly fried; giant chunks of octopus with a hit of charcoal, chilli, oregano and pickled cucumber. Pig’s tail crunch is tanged up in a salad of pomegranate, walnuts, farro and currants. The only let-down was over-large fried okra full of thick white seeds. Honey loukoumades are a no-brainer dessert order, although ouzo pineapple is a zingy alternative.

And … Only groups get to book for dinner.

THE LOW-DOWN
Vibe Greek with faux grunge.
Best bit All the hits, well done.
Worst bit Order overload.