This ain't your average suburban Thai. For a start, there's no punny name, the elegant room is devoid of brassy Thai kitsch and the cooks have a Sailors Thai pedigree. Which is not to say you'll get quite the blast from the food as you do at The Rocks alma mater. But the menu shares many dishes with Sailors and a certain polish. Miang kam stars smoked trout in its betel leaf bundle, zinged up with lime and ginger, along with peanuts and toasted coconut. Fried quails' eggs are wrapped in prawn mousse and encrusted with noodle tresses before being fried to a crunch. Tasmanian grass-fed beef ribs are braised, boneless and warmly spiced. A whole deep-fried snapper arrives dramatically, in the swimming position, its skin crisp and sweet-sour sauced. Attempts to share coconut dumplings - with their coarse coconut and palm sugar filling and their salty-sweet coconut sauce - may end in tears. You have been warned.