There aren't too many Thai restaurants in Sydney that offer a Cosmopolitan before dinner, or deliver a grilled pork salad with just the right balance of chilli-lime dressing. But after a long period of service under Thai expert/chef David Thompson, tapioca's three owners aim to give Cremorne what their alma mater - Sailors Thai - gave the rest of Sydney. This long, attractive dining room presents stylishly smart versions of honest, gutsy, authentic Thai flavours. Stir-fried duck breast is a model of complex notes with a well-rounded chilli hit, jostling with the sting of apple eggplant and green peppercorn. Green curry of wagyu goes beautifully with flaky roti. School prawn and coconut fritters came as individually deep-fried crustaceans, although with barely discernible coconut. But as soon as you taste the lush, deep flavours of that classic Thai dessert - smooth, starchy pearls in sweet-salty coconut cream - you'll know why the place is called tapioca.