'What do you feel like eating tonight?' Lucio Galletto asks the question as if he really wants to know the answer. For 30 years now he has been holding a hospitality masterclass in one of Sydney's most durable restaurants, pulling in a crowd littered with high-rollers, celebs and many of the artists whose work adorns each and every wall. The cooking is informed by Galletto's native Liguria, and tagliolini with blue swimmer crab has been the house speciality since forever. A more recent addition of black 'handkerchief' fazzoletti pasta sauced with olive oil and a fine chop of seafood is, however, silkier and lovelier. A fleshy steak of Spanish mackerel is intriguingly teamed with shaved artichoke heart and parmigiano; and lamb belly, loin and fillet are ingeniously rolled to form a rose-hearted, long-flavoured lamb roast. After that, ricotta-filled cannoli with strawberry salad is (thankfully) surprisingly light. With Galletto's son, Matteo, on board as sommelier, Lucio's could well be around for another 30 years.