Chef Lindsey Schwab's travels through Asia, India, Europe and South America inspire his frequently changing menu. Fleshy, deep-fried soft-shell crab with babaghanoush, pickled carrot, raisins, Israeli couscous and pearls of pink pomegranate has flavour to burn. More sedate is seared Atlantic scallops paired perhaps too simply with a corn crepe, edamame and chilled cherry tomatoes. Mains are more confident. Crisp-skinned barramundi rests on a zingy, crunchy Thai herb and lychee salad, surrounded by a creamy moat of citrussy red curry sauce, while roasted lamb rump with ginger-roasted sweet potato, green beans and tahini, and a fuchsia beetroot pesto, is both satisfying and straightforward. The dessert menu raises indecision to an art form. Eventually, you may settle on a buttercup-yellow yuzu creme brulee with candied-ginger shortbread and vanilla bean-specked mascarpone. While the down-to-earth decor is unremarkable (avoid the outside tables facing the rather bleak street), smiling staff and clever food make this a special dining experience.