Wide wheatfields and grazing livestock may be missing from the view out of this inner-urban kitchen. Never mind, say the happy folk along the communal Farmhouse table, as they swipe house-baked wholemeal ciabatta into beetroot puree, and pick on pickled radishes, cauli, green tomatoes and pancetta - the start of tonight’s generous shared menu. They’re here for well-flavoured, home-style cooking, served on rustic Portuguese ceramics with a convivial, easy wine list. So book in and join forces with the other guests to fork up fabulous roast chicken with peas and okra or sink into sticky beef cheek on a mess of barley, lentils and mushrooms, with a steaming, foil-roasted sweet potato, split open for easy access, on the side. Baked apple with custard and frangipane and a lemon-drizzled poppyseed cake send you off into the Kings Cross night, groaning with country delight.

And … Grab a gang and book out the whole place.

THE LOW-DOWN
Vibe Home away from home at a new friend’s kitchen table.
Best bit Delicious food, no decisions required.
Worst bit The Cross (not a farm) outside.