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Eating at Takam feels like arriving in a new city and accidentally unveiling a hidden gem. Generous plates of juicy barbecued meats, fermented salsas, coal-roasted vegetables and fried party snacks provide a whistle-stop tour of Filipino cuisine. Australian native produce bolsters it all.

Take the fried lumpia: a dense spring roll of ground pork painted with a herby saltbush salsa and wrapped in a bitter sesame leaf. Staff are keen to share the diversity and depth of Filipino food with diners, willingly charting Mexican, Spanish and Chinese influences.

As we go to print, Takam is undergoing a glow-up that will include a mezzanine level for cocktails. Pray the soy-glazed barramundi collars with fermented lime return. Eating them with your hands – tart calamansi cider on the right, a plate of pepperberry brisket and sticky rice to the left – is certainly something to write home about.