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Talk about doing what it says on the box. At this warm, family-run diner on the border of Chinatown, owner-chef Narin “Jack” Kulasai uses pork fat where other kitchens use standard cooking oil, and the flavours are more complex, rounded and rave-worthy as a result.

Baked prawns are a must, the meaty electric-orange tigers roasted with vermicelli and oyster sauce, and sporting little jewels of crisp-fried fat.

Bring your own pinot for grilled pork jowl powered by smoked chilli nam jim, and bring a group to load the table with a heaving puff-ball omelette tingling with white pepper, plus a few tamarind and soy-sticky beef skewers, and at least one of the monthly, limited specials (whole deep-fried barramundi, say, lavished in a purple-red three-flavour sauce pulsing with garlic and chilli).

There are Thai restaurants with longer menus and pricier fit-outs, absolutely, but few nail the salty-sweet-sour trinity like this one.