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Descending Oborozuki’s spiral staircase is like walking onto a stage set for dinner. A golden-hued, cathedral-ceilinged room overlooks the ferry end of Circular Quay, as a dedicated sake sommelier brings a customised Louis Vuitton trunk to your table, filled with precious sake glasses from which to choose.

Above are three private rooms dedicated to teppanyaki, the domain of chef Felix Zheng, and in the open kitchen, a young team headed by Daeun Kang, formerly of Aria. Her food is elegant, refined, and delicately luxurious. Chawanmushi is topped with toasty scallops, sea urchin and Jerusalem artichoke chips, and bathed in scallop consomme.

O’Connor beef tartare is long flavoured and rich, and Maremma duck is a bona fide star, brushed with red wine and maltose, then roasted, rested, carved and grilled. Theatrics and high service levels abound, creating a dining experience with a difference.