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Imagine an exquisite miniature food court. Add accents of pink-flecked terrazzo and a wall of deli delights, both canned and jarred. Now fill it with the scent of freshly baked bread, a cornucopia of luminous salads, beckoning pastries and the roar of conversation.

This is Norma’s, all movement and abundance: sandwiches ludicrously stacked, galaktoboureko generously syrupy and a throng of constantly circulating people making for a chaotic, heady atmosphere. Charred octopus impresses, dressed with a medley of cherry tomatoes and a squeeze of lemon.

Half a roast chook is a little dry so a buttery, flaky spinach tart and subtly tangy taramasalata are better bets, as are any of the riotously overstuffed focaccias. Post-feast baklava or bougatsa is essential, but consider takeaway and go far from the madding crowd – the beach is moments away.