Maiz
Flavour meets sustainability at this lively cantina.
15/20
Mexican$$
From market stall to cafe-style eatery to full-fledged restaurant, this family-run gem just keeps evolving. Entering the upgraded Enmore Road digs (once Hartsyard) is like arriving at a fiesta, with warm greetings, loud music and tables of happy people.
It’d be remiss not to start with one of the best margaritas in town, but it’s not all about the party atmosphere. Why? The food is properly good. Scallop ceviche tostadas maintain their delicacy while blasting citrus. Tacos al pastor replaces the usual pork with sauteed hibiscus flower in a wholly successful vegan rendition.
Tetela de temporada, meanwhile, translates to corn-based pastry encasing sauteed cactus and confit fennel that, with a herby salad and pipian verde sauce made from pumpkin seeds, are pure joy. Add a low-waste kitchen, a love of heirloom corn and local ingredients, and a tone that clearly understands the community, and no wonder locals are flocking.
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Original URL: https://www.smh.com.au/goodfood/nsw-good-food-guide/maiz-20240130-p5f12g.html