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As soon as you enter Hansang, you’re greeted by massive cauldrons of bubbling ox-bone broth. It forms the base for an array of soups, served in stone pots.

Pick the boiled beef combination soup and it’s a Korean nose-to-tail approach in one bowl, with braised beef tripe, tendon, brisket and oxtail all piled into a milky white broth that’s both deeply rich and beautifully clean and beefy.

The brisket sundubujjigae, meanwhile, features fiery red broth thanks to a liberal dose of chilli flakes, as well as soft tofu and kimchi that cuts through with its fermented flavour.

It’s best to dine here in a group, building around the soups and hot pots with beer, soju and the likes of squid and chive jeon, the pancake’s surface crisp, crunchy and primed to dunk into sweet soy. Loud? Fun? Yep. A true taste of Korea? You bet.