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On the eve of its 18th birthday, owner-chef Alex Kearns’ Glebe Point Diner remains as warm and comforting as it was when former Sydney Moring Herald reviewer Simon Thomsen became “utterly enamoured” in 2007.

Simplicity and seasonality are Kearns’ modus operandi, and he’s created a menu that’s both accessible and interesting. Dry-aged roasted duck breast is tender and tart with grilled cherries, if a little over-charred; buttery blue eye lolls in creamy, wakame-dusted fennel veloute; and pickled beetroot with figs is an unexpected highlight – earthy, sweet and bleeding pink against clouds of whipped sesame tofu. .

Taken with the strength of the service (waiters are flush with good advice), the thoughtful selection of local and international wines, beer and cider, and the classically charming bistro-style interiors, it’s little wonder the dining room fills up on weeknights with birthdays, anniversaries and family gatherings. Raise a toast.