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From the pot of gumnuts on the timber parquetry table to the moss-green napkins, the dining experience at Beltana Farm is all earthy tones and simple, but polished, pleasures.

Tall hedges fringe the driveway, leading to a glass-walled lodge of a restaurant with an open fire in winter, a breezy terrace in summer and a wine list full of local treasures.

Choose the tasting menu or pick dishes to share, and there’s plenty to want from chef and co-owner John Leverink (also of The Boat House). Hasselback jacket potato is a must-order; the 600- gram rib-eye comes complete with bone; there’s drama in the squid-ink black-truffled salami; and quince with burnt-butter crumble and bay custard is autumn on a plate.

If there are truffles on the menu, they’re the real thing – Beltana has a truffiere of 800 trees and offers dog-led hunts in June and July.