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Come for the wine, sure – owners James Audas and Tom Sheer made a name for themselves dealing in fancy lo-fi vino – but Ollie Wong-Hee’s cooking will likewise inspire future visits.

Wong-Hee is an expert at presenting produce in surprising ways, such as the prawn toast featuring Queensland green kings squished between two slices of crisp-fried pain a l’ancienne. Or steamed Ballina pipis served with a Mexican tarragon and tomato vinaigrette and local Baker & Daughters baguette, an exercise in precise restraint.

Fresh from the hibachi, Stradbroke Island cuttlefish with Okinawa spinach and a fennel-seed vinaigrette is a highlight. Subtle, distinctive and delicious.

Everything here sings from the same song sheet, including some killer natural wines recommended by informed waitstaff. All this in a smart European-style dining room, a handsome stage for such deft food and drink.