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Supernormal

An unapologetically industrial concrete bunker... Supernormal.
An unapologetically industrial concrete bunker... Supernormal.Wayne Taylor

Good Food hat15.5/20

Modern Asian$$$

Supernormal? Andrew McConnell’s tradition of attention-grabbing restaurant names continues with his freshly minted canteen, an unapologetically industrial concrete bunker with crazy neon signage and a frenzied brigade of chefs churning out his unique brand of modern, Asian-inflected food. The raw bar is the place to start: a power-bomb of pickled bonito with fermented wasabi leaf, or the lilting sea bream with white soy and crunchy nori. The menu is equally confident grabbing influences from Japan, China and Korea; slow-cooked spiced lamb rib dusted in cumin heads to northern China while slippery dumplings are pure Canto; white-cut chicken slicked with black sesame and a cooling spring-onion oil matches beautifully with the Sichuan fire of braised eggplant and smoky tofu. Finish with fried custard doughnuts bathed in ginger syrup; but beware: the lobster roll and the peanut butter parfait, both showstoppers from Golden Fields (the restaurant Supernormal superseded) tempt equally.

And … There’s a karaoke bar downstairs.

THE LOW-DOWN
Vibe Schmick Japanese canteen.
Best bit The food.
Worst bit The no-bookings policy (for groups under 7) at dinner.

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Original URL: https://www.smh.com.au/goodfood/melbourne-eating-out/supernormal-20141001-3h1l7.html