Spilling from the belly of an old industrial building transformed into a performing arts complex, Watt trades on the promise of unassuming excellence. Mostly, it delivers. But service can sometimes fumble and undressed tables under a steel parapet tiptoe close to shed territory. Yet the new management has considered all manner of modern dietary requirements in their menu, helping to regain composure with all-pleasing flair. Chorizo with confit garlic has an appetising tongue tickle. So does green-lip New Zealand mussels with a measured ginger and sesame fuelled escabeche, although a gratuitous lettuce bed diminished the prettiness. Similarly overpowered was a saffron risotto, its chicken quenching even parmesan shavings. Tasmanian trout, cold-smoked in-house as entree, is well sized as main but was light on complexity; lemon, salt and pepper managed to finish it at the table. Coconut cream and passionfruit lychee sorbet (from Lick!) provides a clean finish, aided by breezes off the river.