If we agree that generic Thai food is delicious (and it seems that most of us do), it's all the better when a Thai restaurant spreads its wings beyond the sea of popular dishes and gives us a glance into what lies beyond. Modern Thai is one such place. Its menu does all of the expected basics - fish cakes, curry puffs, larb, stir-fries and the usual collection of curries - but adds a little mystique with its 'specials' selection: New Zealand scallops with snowpeas; a moist fillet of barramundi topped by coconut-driven curry sauce, sticky, sweet and sultry; hot and spicy chilli beef and handful of other dishes that stray from the usual path. Given its suburban location, it plays to a wide audience with restrained spice and buckets of flavour. The 'modern' tag fits the decor more than any other part of the puzzle - it is bright, colourful and a welcome break from the traditional garb.