Frozen parfait of sheep's milk; a wee pile of crumbled biscuit, marinated-raspberries and dollops concentrated raspberry and another of moss-green basil essence, dressed with tiny shoots of baby chervil. It's an extraordinary dessert and easily the most intriguing entry on the Gips menu. It hints at deconstruction as does another dessert of Callebaut chocolate marquis with chocolate 'soil'. But the hint never really gains momentum, no doubt in deference to the whims of a rural audience and the conservative surrounds of the restaurant. The savoury dishes are more stalwart - ginger and chilli duck breast with a tasty but unrefined Asian salad; a velvet-smooth duck liver parfait; impossibly succulent rack of lamb with baby peas, textbook jus, and a clumsy but delicious cylinder of braised shank. Portions are large but it's obvious that the Gips kitchen has a good grip on the culinary arts. On a sunny day or a balmy evening the garden setting is fairytale.