Jaathara’s speciality is southern Indian snacks, made with a dizzying variety of flours and legumes. Vada arrive hot from the fryer: golden-brown savoury doughnuts of black lentil batter that are lightly spiced and magically fluffy.

Poori are puffy pillows to tear and scoop up the accompanying curry (choose from four). There’s more hands-on action with the house special dosa. It arrives sliced into manageable bundles of soft, thin crepe folded over spiced potato mix.

Cut mirchi are rounds of green chilli coated in well-seasoned chickpea batter and double-fried to a biscuity crunch. They come with peanut, coconut and ginger chutneys that add extra dimensions of flavour while counteracting the mild heat. If a rogue chilli surprises you, there’s no shame in ordering another chai. Cooked to order but sold at bain-marie prices, these bites are a true bargain.