'What's that, a brioche?' asks the regular. 'No, ' says the owner indignantly, 'it's a cinnamon scroll. Aren't you the fancy one?' In fact, the cafe is doing its own best to be fancy, with its beautifully darkwood tables on wrought-iron bases, the ceiling looped with long cords and naked globes. It's a pleasant, sunny spot inside or outside for a decent toffee and orange peel Campos caffe latte ($3.50) from the La Marzocco, or some French toast (made with fruit bread) with pear, ricotta and maple syrup. And we hate to disappoint, but the barista is fully clothed. You might just have to watch the flat-screen on the wall instead.