When a Japanese restaurant bravely plucks ideas from other cuisines and makes them work against the odds, it's hard not to be impressed. This Parra' Road institution offers the usuals - sushi, tempura, teriyaki and the like - but take time to contemplate specials such as the sashimi millefeuille. The tower of supermodel-thin slices of salmon, tuna and scallop crowned with a fan of avocado and a mop of red onion and roe, all surrounded by a ring of wasabi dressing, exudes plenty of savoir faire. Soft-shell crab tacos are another temptation. Solo diners should take a seat at the sushi bar towards the rear and let the chef's ultra-fine handiwork double as mealtime entertainment.