With its walls bedecked in handwritten signs, countless specials and photos of just about everything that has come out of the kitchen, you’d be forgiven for avoiding this place or at the most, snaffling a takeaway. But that’d be a shame, since everything is so well cooked and the service, while a little gruff, is earnest and genuine. Make a beeline for the crunchy salt-and-pepper squid, bright with chilli and spring onions, before moving onto fiery Sichuan lamb, classic wok-tossed green beans and classic Yangzhou-style fried rice. No wonder Ma Ma keeps them coming back.