Once the food hits the table this stalwart suddenly feels a lot closer to Vietnam than to its actual home in backpacker central. The crisp pancake, discus-sized and packed with prawns, pork, bean sprouts and mung beans, is the perfect starter, albeit a conversation killer (‘can’t talk … eating’). The menu is imaginative, with the likes of Saigon-style prawn cakes and five-spice crisp duck breast with stir-fried cabbage, ham and shiitake mushrooms. Various European-style desserts are on offer, but opting for black sticky rice with coconut custard ensures the virtual South-East Asian jaunt remains on track.