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‘You’ve never experienced mash like this’: Chef Rosheen Kaul’s hot potato makeover

In these reimagined meat-free recipes, vegetables come out of the shadows and on to centre stage.

Rosheen Kaul

Spicy stir-fried mashed potato and fennel is loosely based on colcannon.
Spicy stir-fried mashed potato and fennel is loosely based on colcannon.Armelle Habib; STYLING: Lee Blaylock

We’re all familiar with the concept of hiding vegetables from resistant eaters, whether it’s by blitzing them to add to bolognese, slipping beetroot into a chocolate cake or sneaking sweet potato into sausage rolls.

But reimagining traditionally meat-free classics might be a different way to experience something you already love, and get more veg into the weekly rotation.

Spicy stir-fried mashed potato and fennel is loosely based on colcannon.
Spicy stir-fried mashed potato and fennel is loosely based on colcannon.Armelle Habib; STYLING: Lee Blaylock

Spicy stir-fried mashed potato and fennel

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This dish combines the smoky, spicy flavours of Yunnan mashed potato with gorgeous caramelised fennel, loosely inspired by colcannon, the hearty Irish dish combining mashed potato with greens.

The smoke comes from stir-frying boiled potatoes over high heat with heady spices, mashing them as you go and capturing the flavour of hot oil, then folding through slices of caramelised fennel, a sprinkling of fronds and topped with your favourite chilli oil. You’ve never experienced mash like this.

INGREDIENTS

  • 500g starchy potatoes, peeled (see note)
  • 1 fennel bulb
  • 3 tbsp vegetable oil
  • 4 garlic cloves, minced
  • 2 stalks spring onion, sliced
  • ½ tsp smoked paprika
  • ½ tsp salt
  • cracked black pepper
  • 1 tbsp chilli oil or to taste

METHOD

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  1. Cut the potato into 1.5cm dice and boil until tender. Drain and set aside, but reserve 2 tablespoons of the starchy cooking water.
  2. Prepare the fennel by slicing off the stems and fronds and setting them aside. Cut the bulb in half vertically, remove the core and slice thinly. Slice the stems, pick and wash the fronds, and set the stems and fronds aside separately.
  3. Add 1 tablespoon of oil to a seasoned wok, large cast-iron pot or non-stick frying pan and heat until smoking. Add the sliced fennel bulb, and caramelise all over (3-4 minutes). Remove from the pan and set aside.
  4. Add another tablespoon of oil to the pan and heat to a shimmer over medium heat, then add the garlic, spring onion and smoked paprika. Stir-fry until the garlic and onion are softened and fragrant.
  5. Add the cooked potatoes, along with the reserved cooking water, to the pan and, using a wooden spoon or spatula, start stir-frying the potatoes, crushing them as you go. The heat should be high enough that the oil is sizzling. You’re looking for textural contrast, so don’t worry about mashing the potatoes until smooth.
  6. Add the remaining tablespoon of oil to the pan and continue frying the potatoes. This will prevent the potatoes from becoming a gluey mess. Add the salt, caramelised fennel, the sliced fennel stems and a few turns of black pepper. Stir-fry for another 10-15 seconds and taste, adjusting with salt and pepper if necessary. Transfer to a plate in a nice mound, top with the fennel fronds and as much chilli oil as you like.

Serves 2-3 as a side

Note: Look for starchy potato varieties such as sebago, coliban, King Edward or russet burbank.

Bucatini with Thai basil and green chilli pesto speaks with an Australian accent.
Bucatini with Thai basil and green chilli pesto speaks with an Australian accent.Armelle Habib; STYLING: Lee Blaylock

Bucatini with Thai basil and green chilli pesto

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Until I tried freshly made basil pesto, I never had much love for the stuff. Once bruised, basil leaves have a short shelf life, and their powerful aroma is fleeting unless captured in oil.

This version takes the traditional dish in another direction. I’ve combined the slightly licorice flavour of Thai basil with the green pepperiness of sweet basil, then layered in the richness of macadamias and the bite of fresh garlic and green chilli. Soy sauce, lime juice and good olive oil bring all the flavours together.

A food processor makes short work of what would otherwise be a laborious task. Slicked onto bucatini and topped with a rich egg yolk, it’s a quick and easy dinner.

INGREDIENTS

  • 125g bucatini
  • 2 egg yolks
  • Thai basil leaves and sliced green chilli to serve
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Thai basil and green chilli pesto (makes 1 cup)

  • 1 cup Thai basil leaves
  • 1 cup green basil leaves
  • ½ cup roasted macadamias
  • 2 garlic cloves, peeled
  • 1 green chilli, stem removed
  • 1 ½ tsp soy sauce
  • 2 tsp lime juice
  • ¼ tsp sugar
  • ¼ cup good olive oil, plus extra to serve
  • salt and pepper to taste

METHOD

  1. Place the basil leaves, macadamias, garlic and chilli in the bowl of a food processor and pulse to form a coarse paste. Add the soy sauce, lime juice and sugar and blend until smooth, then add the olive oil. Taste and adjust with salt and pepper, if required. Set aside.
  2. Cook the bucatini in boiling salted water for 8-10 minutes, until al dente, then drain, reserving a little of the pasta cooking water.
  3. Add the pesto to the hot cooked pasta, along with a tablespoon or two of pasta water to loosen.
  4. Stir thoroughly to combine, then divide between two plates. Top each dish with an egg yolk, a few Thai basil leaves and chilli slices and a drizzle of olive oil. Mix thoroughly and eat immediately.

Serves 2

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Rosheen KaulRosheen Kaul is the former head chef of Melbourne’s Etta, author of the cookbook Chinese-ish, and a Good Food recipe columnist.

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Original URL: https://www.brisbanetimes.com.au/goodfood/recipes/you-ve-never-experienced-mash-like-this-chef-rosheen-kaul-s-hot-potato-makeover-20250513-p5lyur.html