It’s an upstairs-downstairs affair at The Waratah, a cosy corner site infused with an Australian accent. Stay down, and a rotating roster of cocktails (a mezcal-spiked Japanese Slipper, say) joins a fine burger and the signature rhubarb and watermelon Waratah Spritz. Head up, and it’s bistro classics with Aussie wines, plus drinks of beauty and complexity from co-owner Evan Stroeve, infused with ingredients from regional growers and makers. Either way it’s a win.

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