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Few things say “welcome, settle in” more eloquently than the trolley of carefully chosen sparkling wines wheeled to your table at Pendolino. It’s part of the old-school hospitality that defines this CBD stayer which suits both the business crowd and the setting – all crisp tablecloths and carpet.

On the plate, there’s classic Italian flavours, but don’t expect simplicity. Springy hibachi-grilled calamari comes with a jumble of spring vegetables and purees, rich red sauce and umami-pulsing crustacean oil; a dory fillet is served with savoury sauvignon blanc zabaglione and plentiful garnishes.

Pasta, perhaps sauced with wild boar and organic beef ragu, is made from a combination of spelt, rye and whole wheat flours. Some of the plating could be more focused, but the impressive cellar is nicely honed. Note that new wine bar Bottega offers the same Italian-first list, plus a la carte options for more casual visits.