Elusive signage and a nondescript front space give little indication of the grill-your-own deliciousness ahead. Out back, you’ll find a garden courtyard where large groups convene over heroic quantities of skewered meat to a soundtrack of whizzing fans and hissing coals. A vast menu includes plenty of beer-friendly gnarly bits (tongue, skin and cartilage) and prices are more than reasonable. The 20-skewer-per-table minimum is easy to reach. A generous order of fatty lamb skewers, liberally dusted with cumin-heavy seasoning, is essential, and for spice fanatics there are tabletop shakers of whole cumin seeds. Double-skewered half-quail cooks up a treat, smoky and blushing thanks to cleverly designed grills. It’s also worth exploring some of the seafood or vegetable options, such as the cold buckwheat noodles and crisp potato pancake which, with a tight banchan spread, keep everything nicely in check.