There's a surprising sophistication to a meal in what, at first glance, appears to be a friendly neighbourhood bistro. This quirky yet homey setting, in a small village retail complex, is an amiable pleasure. Welcoming service with an easy smile adds to the warmth of two rooms with a colourful, provincial French vibe of antique timber tables, arty plates and wines by the carafe. There's a smart tapas-style menu in the bar, and Andrew Doughton's multifarious, ever-evolving menu, which samples global flavours, adding Noma-esque touches to his intriguing combinations without losing sight of what's abundant locally. Roast stargazer (monkfish) with heirloom carrots is sweetened by a light curry sauce, while fall-apart-flaky lamb shoulder with black garlic and eggplant, both whole and smoky puree, is satisfying comfort. Apple, granola, fig leaf and buckwheat ice-cream is like your nan's old crumble dressed up for a night on the tiles. This is cooking that's both hearty and filled with heart.