South Yarra’s deluxe sushi restaurant now offers a more affordable way to omakase
Behind Yugen’s curtained-off room is a new omakase experience from one of Melbourne’s most in-demand sushi chefs.
The six seats at Yugen’s omakase counter in South Yarra are some of the trickiest to score in town. But the restaurant is offering an olive branch to those who have set reminders and logged on month after month only to miss out on a spot. It’s called Yugen Nidaime – or Yugen, the second generation.
Upstairs from the subterranean restaurant is Yugen Tea Bar, its striking interiors hidden behind a heavy curtain. From Wednesday to Sunday night, it will play host to eight diners seeking some of the magic of sushi master Alex Yu.
The format is similar to Yugen Omakase: a parade of elaborately presented bites of seafood and other Japanese delicacies, perhaps oysters with a soy-vinegar jelly, seared paradise prawn nigiri or ochazuke rice cooked in front of you in wakocha tea and finished with smoked eel.
But the price – $175 – is nearly $100 less than a seat at the omakase downstairs, which sells out in less than 10 minutes every month.
Why the difference? For one thing, this is a scaled-down menu, with 16 to 18 courses, compared with 23 to 25 downstairs. There are also two sittings a night, giving both omakase nerds and newbies more chances to book.
“It’s no different in quality or thought-process or passion,” says Yugen culinary director Stephen Nairn. Hokkaido scallops, two types of tuna and other sought-after seafood appear on the menu.
Yu works closely with chef Yu Orita on the sourcing and development of the menu, but he says Nidaime is all about creating the next generation of sushi chefs.
The team will be able to try out new ideas in a more relaxed setting than the traditional omakase environment, which is often governed by strict rules such as no photos or phones, and little conversation.
The drinks pairings are also broader, with tea the obvious choice to make the most of the tea bar location. Alcoholic drinks pairings start at $85, also a significant discount.
The best part might be that you can stop setting yourself monthly reminders – for now, anyway.
Open Wed-Sun 6pm or 8.30pm.
605 Chapel Street, South Yarra, yugendining.com.au
Emma Breheny – Emma is Good Food's Melbourne-based reporter and co-editor of The Age Good Food Guide 2024.