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First look: Has Southbank finally got a good lunch (and breakfast) bar?

Emma Breheny
Emma Breheny

At Chessell and Clarke, a Flack Studio-designed space is the backdrop to an all-day eatery on the border of Southbank and South Melbourne serving vibrant dishes inspired by Italy, Turkey and the wider Mediterranean.

Chef and co-owner Murat Ovaz (left) and chef Frank Berardi are combining culinary influences.
Chef and co-owner Murat Ovaz (left) and chef Frank Berardi are combining culinary influences.Hugh Davison

Chef and co-owner Murat Ovaz, who cooked at Yagiz for five years, brings Turkish dishes such as the yoghurt-doused eggs known as cilbir and adana kebabs, which he’s serving here in burger form with house-made pickles.

His head chef Frank Berardi sings from an Italian songbook, as seen across dishes including pork and gremolata sausages made in-house or swordfish spiedini (skewers) wrapped in guanciale.

Gnocchi with parsnip and sumac
Gnocchi with parsnip and sumacHugh Davison
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Their Mediterranean embrace means a central counter is filled with the likes of taramasalata, Caprese salad, stuffed capsicum, mortadella, Moroccan-spiced carrot salad, and more. For $18, people can choose what they like and make up a lunch plate (or box to-go).

“Both cuisines have in common lots of vegetarian and meat dishes, and lots of fresh produce… It’s a beautiful combination,” says Ovaz.

Going the extra mile, the kitchen is making its own bacon and other charcuterie, which will also feature on a meze-heavy evening menu that’s coming soon, along with a liquor licence.

Cilbir, eggs served with yoghurt and chilli, are a breakfast highlight.
Cilbir, eggs served with yoghurt and chilli, are a breakfast highlight.Hugh Davison

Ovaz says he was drawn to the interiors of the 50-seater, with contrasting blue and sandy tones, hard surfaces and chequerboard tiled floors. Square & Compass cafe previously occupied the site.

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It’s not Ovaz’s first foray into Italian food. The chef purchased I Carusi II in St Kilda earlier this year along with former City of Port Phillip councillor Serge Thomann, who is also his partner in Chessell and Clarke.

Open Mon-Fri 7.30am-3 pm

31 Chessell Street, Southbank, 03 9321 3333, chessellandclarke.com.au

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Emma BrehenyEmma BrehenyEmma is Good Food's Melbourne-based reporter and co-editor of The Age Good Food Guide 2024.

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Original URL: https://www.brisbanetimes.com.au/goodfood/melbourne-eating-out/first-look-has-southbank-finally-got-a-good-lunch-and-breakfast-bar-20230404-p5cy4t.html