In the midst of waxing about the underfloor wine cellar and the artsy drinks trolley, Antoine Moscovitz perks up about another feature at his new Glebe eatery Bellevue Cottage by Antoine, which opens on Thursday.

"We've got a water limousine that can drop you off or pick you up out the front, or take you take a quick 30-minute cruise [during your meal]," he says.

In getting his hands on the historic waterfront Bellevue Cottage, Moscovitz has taken on the coveted location of the former Blackwattle Cafe, which has turned off many seasoned restaurateurs due to objections from locals.

The chef, who toiled in the kitchen under Alain Ducasse in France, is taking a gentle introductory road.

Initially opening for breakfast and lunch from Thursday to Sunday, he'd like to broaden that down the track - subject to council approval - to include dinner.

Moscovitz started construction at the historic building late last year, opening with a brunch menu designed to stretch through the day.

There's a meat vibe, with grilled Campbell's New York pork, folded eggs and apple black pudding plus a crispy smoked pork belly.

Vegetarians will head to the "buzzed" avocado with goat's curd.

Moscovitz has skipped cookie-cutter Sydney brunch menus, and says he wanted to bring touches of his fine-dining training to an accessible brunchy menu where dish prices are in the $18 to $26 range.

And if you're interested in the artworks, they were painted by his artist father Pascal Moscovitz.

Open Thur-Sun 7.30am-3pm.

Bellevue Cottage by Antoine, 55 Leichhardt Street, Glebe, facebook.com/bellevuecottagebyantoine