Antoine Moscovitz toiled in the kitchen under Alain Ducasse in France, which will stand him in good stead for the even bigger challenge of taking on one of the toughest restaurant sites in Sydney.

The chef plans to rebirth the Blackwattle Cafe site in Glebe as Antoine at the Cottage.

Sweeping water views, a parkland setting and historic building made the site a magnet for ambitious restaurateurs when it first came up a decade ago.

A number of high-profile operators toyed with taking the site. The operator of the Tea Room QVB came closest before walking away in 2007 after many Glebe residents opposed it.

Concerns were voiced about the proposal, including parking and opening hours.

Moscovitz, who previously owned and operated Antoine's Grill in Concord, says he'll open in March under the restrictions of its last tenant.

"Blackwattle Cafe closed a few years ago. We'll trade under the previous DA and try and get our changes through later. I'd like to do valet parking in the evening," he says.

Other long-term plans include a 80-square-metre vegetable patch and turning two unused rooms on the lower level into a cafe and takeaway.