The sound of our horses’ hoofs clopping on the snowy ground carries on the crisp night air. Breath steams from our Icelandic mounts’ nostrils while waves wash rhythmically against the nearby shore. Above our heads, a half-moon and diamond-sharp stars glitter in a sky from which today’s clouds have miraculously cleared.
The idea of riding a horse through a late-winter Norwegian night, with temperatures hovering just above freezing, may seem foolhardy, but the pay-off is on its way. What appears to be a trail of cloud drifting across the sky suddenly becomes recognisable as the Northern Lights.